Decoding Jewelry Through Maker's Marks and Hallmarks
There are many clues hidden in the anatomy of a jewel—most notably, within its marks. Often, jewelry is stamped or inscribed with letters or symbols that directly translate to a maker or a country of origin.
These indicators can be instrumental in substantiating provenance, authenticity, period, and more; interpreting a maker’s mark or hallmark is a collector’s first step in understanding their jewelry.
What is a maker's mark?
A maker's mark is a stamp indicating the manufacturer; usually these marks take the form of the name itself. The interior of a hoop on a David Webb ring, for instance, is stamped “Webb.” Initials are common, and symbols have also become synonymous with some jewelry houses.
Where and how can I find marks?
Use a 10x loupe. This essential and affordable tool will allow you to see even the smallest details. Look over the piece in its entirety, paying special attention to clasps and fittings. More often than not, jewelry is marked on the rear, but some makers, such as Erté, have been known to sign the front of their work.
What can a maker's mark tell me?
More than anything else, a maker’s mark assists in establishing authenticity. A manufacturer’s mark can tell you more than just their name: most makers—especially older, more established houses—have changed their signatures and ciphers over time. Stylistic choices—initials rather than names, or hand inscription rather than laser inscription—can help indicate the period in which a piece was manufactured. Marks can even help trace a piece’s origin.
What is a hallmark?
Hallmarks are letters, numbers, or symbols whose indications are guaranteed by an independent institution. Depending on the country of origin, manufacturers present their jewelry to an assay office or other authority to guarantee the purity of the precious metals. This system serves as one of the first initiatives to protect consumers. Each country has its own system of marks, rules, and regulations.
What can a hallmark tell me?
Most commonly, hallmarks indicate the purity of the precious metal. For example, in the United States, a piece composed of 75% gold and 25% alloy may be stamped “18K”; in France, it would be stamped with the head of an eagle, as pictured here. Not only does this confirm that the bracelet is eighteen-karat gold, it also confirms that it was manufactured in France.
In addition to metal purity, hallmarks can also indicate the sponsor, year of manufacturing, and the location of the assay office in which it was guaranteed. Markings on jewelry manufactured in the United Kingdom can indicate all of the above.
What other kinds of marks are out there?
Most often, the impressed symbols found on jewelry are maker's marks and hallmarks. However, these indicators have been used to communicate a variety of different information. They have sometimes been used to indicate the designer or retailer.
Tally marks illustrate the craftsman who shaped that specific piece. Patent numbers—which indicate the rights granted to an inventor, and are consequently associated with a date—can assist in dating the piece. Similarly, serial numbers—sometimes used by makers like Cartier to track inventory—can help authenticate and date a piece. Import, export, and duty marks, used for tax purposes, can also indicate origin.
Although these small symbols directly translate to manufacturer's names, or a metal's purity, they also serve as stepping stones for a much greater scope of jewelry understanding. Maker's marks and hallmarks can assist in verifying authenticity, communicating metal purity, place of origin, import or export, period of manufacture, and much more.